%@LANGUAGE="VBSCRIPT"%> <% ' *** Visit Counter *** ' FELIXONE 2002 - SB by Felice Di Stefano - www.felixone.it Dim FX_count Dim FX_digit FX_digit = 0 Dim FX_dpath FX_dpath = Server.MapPath("FX_DataCounter") Dim FX_fpath FX_fpath = Server.MapPath("FX_DataCounter/counter.txt") set FX_fso = Server.CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject") ' Check if directory and file exists, if not create it. If (Not FX_fso.fileExists(FX_fpath)) Then If (Not FX_fso.folderExists(FX_dpath)) Then FX_fso.CreateFolder(FX_dpath) End If Application.Lock() set FX_file = FX_fso.OpenTextFile(FX_fpath, 8, true) FX_file.write(1329) FX_file.Close() Application.Unlock() End If ' Read file and update it once per session set FX_fobj = FX_fso.getfile(FX_fpath) set FX_file = FX_fobj.OpenAsTextStream(1,-2) FX_count = FX_file.Read(100) If (Session("FX_DataCounter") = "") Then Application.Lock() set FX_file = FX_fso.CreateTextFile(FX_fpath, 8, false) FX_file.write(FX_count+1) FX_file.Close() Application.Unlock() set FX_fso = nothing FX_count = FX_count+1 Session("FX_DataCounter") = FX_count End If ' Add leadings FX_numlength = Len(cStr(FX_count)) If (FX_numlength < FX_digit) Then FX_lead = cInt(FX_digit - FX_numlength) For i=1 To FX_lead FX_count = "0" & FX_count Next End If %>
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Welcome to my seeker project. First of all I will say that this is not my natural language so some strange words and spelling will probably I will also thanks Dave Norman who is the author of the plans for this plane. And all help I have got from the The very first thing I did when I get the drawings from Dave was to made them to solid drawings. |
| Here is the assembly of the cad model. I use Solid Works for this. |
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| Stage 1. Making the forms. I use tape with adhesive on both sides and tape a ply 5mm on a aluminum block. Then I mill out all the forms in the CNC machine. |
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| And here is the result. | ![]() |
| In this drawing all the wood is intend to be laser cut.
When using laser cut there will be no radius at corners as it will be when
milling. So here is technique to overcome the radius and get sharp corners. If you wonder what the ribs are for, you will soon understand. |
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Fuselage sides. I glue 0,5m of doubler with pu together with 1m of 5mm
balsa. |
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| And the result. | ![]() |
Here I test if all forms fit where it should. Seems to be working fine. |
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| Now you probably understand what the ribs are for. With this you get an awesome nice fitting, and stiffness to. | ![]() |
| I have now the firewall form left to manufacture. That one is a little bit harder to made because the sides is not 90 degree. So for this one I use our latest technique. A 5-axis machine there I can move the part in almost any angles I want. | ![]() |
| And here are firewall and the end piece done. (for 3 planes) | ![]() |
Making the tail. For this I have made a template of plyfa and I have also
bought a little machine for making fuselage sides and tail in the future.
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Making your own milling machine. First I bought this milling machine. (Don't know the right word for it in english, but we call it "overhand milling") Then I unscrew the plate. |
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Bye a flat piece of wood. This part is about 20mm thick and normally used for furniture. Can't find the word of it again. Mark the 4 holes and big hole in the center. Drill the 4 holes out just slightly bigger then the thread. You can use a hole saw to make a big hole in the center. |
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Now counter sink the 4 holes so your screws will come under the surface. Screw the machine back with the 4 screws and you have your own milling machine with a table. You can now attach the table with screws or something else to bench or similar. |
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| Here is from the underside. | ![]() |
Here is my tail template. I put 3 small spikes right through the template so it will come out o couple of millimeters at the other side. Then just push the balsa on the spikes and start milling. Of course you must have a special mill that have a ball bearing on top that is following the the template. But usually that is always included in the toolkit when you by it. |
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Here is my wing templates Upper part and lower part. The big one is intend for making the right size. I will let see later. |
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Ok, back again. The tail on this, is not exactly the Seeker original. But almost. That's because i have this sense an earlier trying of glass hinge and it's was almost finished. |
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Servos and push rods installed. This was very tricky to get room for the linkage at the tail. I used carbon fiber push rods and glue a short piece of steel in each end. |
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And know it's time to cover. I use "Oracover"
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Finished! Well chrome coat on the wing is not a suitable color. But that's was the only only one I had in my stock. |
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Do you wan 't to win some races? Bye a Webra engine. Here in Sweden nothing beats it. Here are some of the brands who have tried MVVS, OS, TT, Rossi, Magnum, ASP, Irvine, and more. |
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| And also a picture of the tail that I'm satisfied with. For being my first skinned hinge tail. | ![]() |
As you notice, there is no pictures of the skinned hinge of the wing. That's because i'm not satisfied with it. I have started the next one know, and i will show you that one instead. |
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How to make and mount a spare at the wing? Mark the wing where the spare should be. |
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Finished. |
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In the center of the wing you probably feel ed some glue after joining the 2 half's together. Never mind that. Just cut out some clearance in the ply. I use 1,5mm plywood for spare. Cut a oversized piece of ply. And the right length of it. |
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| Push in the spare right down to the bottom and mark with a pen. | ![]() |
Cut after the line you have marked. Time to glue. Usually I use PU or epoxy. Put in so much you can also on the spare. Then push in the spare. If you use PU, use tape to cover the opening. |
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Now to the skinned hinges. I try to follow the manual made by Dave. Here I have marked up and cut out the area. This is the easy part. |
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Now I cover the foam with balsa 1.5mm on both sides. Glue and holding it together with tape. Also very easy. |
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When the glue has dry. I sand to the surface of the wing. Very easy. |
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I have mark for the push rods. I use my Dremel to cut a grove. (The word "NER" is the same as "DOWN") |
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And glued in place. Don't forget to grease the linkage before. Or you never gone a move it. |
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And the other end.
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And know we come to the little more difficult part i think. To cut the glass in a straight width doesn't seem to work for me. This time I mark the glass with to straight lines at width of 1"3/8. And after I have cut it out it looks like a Banana and are not 1"3/8 wide any more. I have tried to cut with a razor wheel knife and with scissors. And no one gives me straight cuts. And before glue Dave use a special sanding block. I made one to. And this was also a little bit tricky. But this time I notice something that I forget last time. After gluing the glass, put some plastic over and flip the wing up side down. Put some pressure on it, and leave it. This give me a much nicer surface, and I'm very pleased. So far. Working with glass is not one my strong parts. |
![]() I use 105grams glass for this. |
I also put one layer of thin glass over the ailerons. Tomorrow when dry. I cut of the overflow glass. And starts with the dowels. The next part I made some mistakes last time. |
![]() I use 25grams glass here. |
| I'll be back soon | |
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